B-1143R
Revised August 2020
Karen Panter, Extension Horticulture Specialist, Department of Plant Sciences, University of Wyoming
Landscaping:
Water-Wise
Wyoming Gardens
Xeriscape
Many areas in Wyoming are high-elevation deserts, and some areas receive less than 10 inches of precipitation each year. This makes landscape water management a necessity rather than an option.
In the landscape there are all sorts of wonderful plant types from annuals to evergreens that do not require much water. For plants that require a bit more irrigation, there are watering systems and mulches available to keep water in the soil where plants need it.
Years ago, Denver Water coined the term “xeriscape” to denote landscaping with low-water-using plant material. (No, it is not pronounced “zeroscape.”) Unfortunately, many people think this means using gravel and cactus, but nothing could be farther from the truth. Others have used the term “water wise.” Either way, there is a definite process involved in landscaping to cut down on irrigation needs.
There are seven steps involved in setting up a water-wise landscape or xeriscape. These steps are, briefly: 1) developing a landscape plan, 2) reducing turf areas, 3) improving the soil, 4) selecting appropriate plants, 5) mulching the soil, 6) irrigating efficiently, and 7) maintaining properly. Always keep in mind that any new perennial plantings will require consistent moisture until they are established (usually two to three years, depending on the plant), especially during the winter.
STEP 1 – DEVELOPING A LANDSCAPE PLAN
Spend some time planning and designing on paper. Analyze the site, taking into account existing structures, other plants, shade, sun, wind exposure, and neighbors. Then decide what areas are needed — turf area for kids, a vegetable garden, a center for entertaining, or a dog zone.
STEP 2 – LIMITING TURF AREAS
Note that this does not say eliminate turf areas. For areas with little or no foot traffic, consider groundcovers such as carpet bugle (see Ground Covers, page 7). For heavily used areas, consider mixtures of turfgrasses. For areas that may be tough to maintain and mow, consider perennial ornamental grasses. Some alternative turfgrasses are possibilities, depending on the altitude. Perennial flower beds or tree and shrub additions are also appropriate. Even hardscapes such as patios, walks, and decks should be considered.
Keep in mind that turf areas help to cool down the environment, soften the landscape, use carbon dioxide, and provide essential oxygen. Using rock or gravel mulch near a home may result in heating the area. Any savings in water might be offset by air conditioning costs inside.
Bearberry, kinnikinnick ( Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)
Carpet bugle ( Ajuga)
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STEP 3 – SELECTING AND ZONING PLANTS APPROPRIATELY
Put the right plants in the right places. Group plants with similar water requirements together to make irrigation simpler and more efficient. Look for microclimates around structures. Every yard or landscape will have shady areas that stay moister than south or west-facing zones. In Wyoming there is the potential for windy spots, too. Group low-water-use plants together, those that require moderate watering together in an- other area, and those plants that require consistent watering and are high water users in yet another spot. Then irrigate each area accordingly.
STEP 4 – IMPROVING THE SOIL
This is probably the most important step in any landscaping, xeriscaped or otherwise. Before most plants are put in the ground, good-quality organic matter should usually be added. (Exceptions may exist for plants that are native to Wyoming; many of these require little soil improvement if any.) Put a layer about two inches thick on the area to be planted and then till or spade it in to a depth of about six inches. Also, core aerate lawn areas at least once a year. Avoid aerating in hot, summer months, though, in order to reduce evaporation from newly exposed soil. Core aeration allows better water and air penetration to the grass root systems. Leave the cores on
the turf since they will add nutrients and organic matter back to the area as they break down.
STEP 5 – USING MULCHES
This is arguably the second most important step in landscaping. Good-quality organic mulches (bark, straw, etc.) keep moisture in the soil, minimize evaporation, moderate soil temperatures, mitigate freeze/thaw damage, and add organic matter back into the soil as they decompose. They also help prevent weed seeds from germinating. One problem with organic mulches, however, is that they are prone to blowing away in windy areas. Inorganic mulches (gravel, rock, etc.) can also be used but tend to get hot and warm up the surrounding area. The type that should be used (inorganic or organic) depends on the landscape design and the long-term goals for the area.
STEP 6 – IRRIGATING EFFICIENTLY
Note that this does not say “stop watering.” Water according to area and plant type as well as weather patterns. Use drip irrigation or soaker hoses where possible for annuals, perennials, and vegetables. Other types of watering systems should be used for large trees and shrubs as well as turf areas. These can include overhead sprinklers and automatic systems. If the sprinklers are on an automatic-timer system, remember
Blanket flower ( Gaillardia x grandiflora)
Globe amaranth ( Gomphrena globosa)
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to change the clock according to the weather and season. “Set and forget” is too common and is not appropriate. Whatever system is used, make sure it is functioning properly and is not clogged or split or leaking. Another important point is to irrigate at night or early in the morning to minimize evaporation.
STEP 7 – MAINTAINING PROPERLY
A no-maintenance landscape is almost nonexistent, but low maintenance is possible, depending on the plant material. Some xeriscape or water-wise gardens may need as much maintenance as a more traditional garden. Such routine tasks as weeding, deadheading, fertilizing, and occasional mowing may still need to be done.
Here are some suggestions for water-wise plant materials from trees to annuals and even a few shade plants.
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Trees |
||
---|---|---|
Celtis occidentalis |
common hackberry |
deciduous |
Crataegus crus-galli |
cockspur hawthorn |
deciduous |
Gymnocladus dioicus |
Kentucky coffeetree |
deciduous |
Juniperus scopulorum |
Rocky Mountain juniper |
evergreen |
Pinus aristata |
bristlecone pine |
evergreen |
Pinus ponderosa |
ponderosa pine |
evergreen |
Quercus macrocarpa |
bur oak |
deciduous |
Rhus typhina |
staghorn sumac |
deciduous |
Shrubs |
||
---|---|---|
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi |
bearberry, kinnikinnick |
semi-evergreen |
Atriplex canescens |
four-wing saltbush |
semi-evergreen |
Caragana arborescens |
peashrub |
deciduous |
Caryopteris x clandonensis |
blue mist spirea |
deciduous |
Cercocarpus ledifolius |
mountain mahogany |
deciduous |
Cotoneaster apiculatus |
cranberry cotoneaster |
evergreen |
Holodiscus dumosus |
rock spirea |
deciduous |
Juniperus chinensis |
Chinese juniper |
evergreen |
Juniperus horizontalis |
spreading juniper |
evergreen |
Juniperus sabina |
savin juniper |
evergreen |
Krascheninnikovia lanata |
winterfat |
deciduous |
Lonicera sp. |
honeysuckle |
deciduous |
Potentilla fruticosa |
cinquefoil |
deciduous |
Pyracantha sp. |
firethorn |
evergreen |
Rhus trilobata |
skunkbush sumac |
deciduous |
Ribes odoratum |
clove currant |
deciduous |
Robinia pseudoacacia |
black locust |
deciduous |
Rosa rugosa |
rugosa rose |
deciduous |
Symphoricarpos alba |
snowberry |
deciduous |
Syringa vulgaris |
common lilac |
deciduous |
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Perennials |
||
---|---|---|
Achillea sp. |
Yarrow |
various colors, midsummer |
Armeria maritima |
Sea pink |
rose pink, early summer |
Artemisia sp. |
Sage, wormwood |
grown for foliage |
Asclepias tuberosa |
Butterfly weed |
various colors, midsummer |
Aurinia saxatilis |
Basket of gold |
golden yellow, early summer |
Callirhoe involucrata |
Wine cup |
maroon, midsummer |
Centranthus ruber |
Valerian |
pink, crimson, all summer |
Eriogonum umbellatum |
Sulfur flower |
yellow, early summer |
Gaillardia x grandiflora |
Blanket flower |
gold, late summer |
Hemerocallis sp. |
Daylily |
various colors, all summer |
Iris (some species) |
Iris |
various colors, early summer |
Linum perenne |
Flax |
blue, early summer |
Nepeta x faassenii |
Catmint |
lavender, blue, all summer |
Oenothera missouriensis |
Evening primrose |
yellow, all summer |
Perovskia atriplicifolia |
Russian sage |
blue, late summer |
Penstemon (some species) |
Beardtongue |
various colors, early summer |
Salvia (many species) |
Sage |
grown for foliage |
Sedum sp. |
Stonecrop |
various colors, late summer |
Stachys byzantina |
Lamb’s ears |
grown for foliage |
Annuals |
||
---|---|---|
Centaurea (some species) |
Cornflower, dusty miller |
|
Coreopsis tinctoria |
Tickseed |
|
Eschscholzia californica |
California poppy |
|
Gaillardia pulchella |
Blanket flower |
|
Gazania (several species) |
Gazania |
|
Gomphrena globosa |
Globe amaranth |
|
Lavatera trimestris |
Annual mallow |
|
Pennisetum setaceum rubrum |
Purple fountain grass |
|
Portulaca grandiflora |
Moss rose |
|
Portulaca oleracea |
Purslane |
|
Sanvitalia procumbens |
Creeping zinnia |
|
Zinnia angustifolia |
Narrowleaf zinnia |
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Vines |
||
---|---|---|
Lonicera (some species) |
Honeysuckle |
various colors, all summer |
Fallopia baldschuanica |
Silver lace vine |
white, all summer |
Shade Plants |
||
---|---|---|
Arctostaphylos uva-ursi |
Kinnikinnick, bearberry |
evergreen shrub |
Heuchera sanguinea |
Coral bells |
perennial |
Mahonia repens |
Creeping grape holly |
evergreen |
Symphoricarpos x chenaultii |
Chenault coral berry |
deciduous |
Ground Covers |
||
---|---|---|
Antennaria dioica |
Pussytoes |
pink, early summer |
Delosperma sp. |
Ice plant |
various colors, all summer |
Persicaria affinis |
Himalayan border jewel |
pink, red, all summer |
Sedum (many species) |
Stonecrop |
various colors, late summer |
Sempervivum sp. |
Hen and chicks |
grown for foliage |
Thymus pseudolanuginosus |
Woolly thyme |
pink, midsummer |
Veronica pectinata |
Woolly speedwell |
blue, early summer |
Ajuga |
Carpet bugle |
|
Thymus |
Thyme |
|
Vinca minor |
Vinca, periwinkle |
|
Lamium |
Nettle |
|
Galium |
Sweet woodruff |
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Grasses |
||
---|---|---|
Agropyron cristatum |
Crested wheatgrass |
bunch turf grass |
Bouteloua gracilis |
Blue grama grass |
clump ornamental, turf |
Buchloe dactyloides |
Buffalograss |
turf, below 6,500 feet |
Calamagrostis acutiflora |
Feather reed grass |
ornamental |
Festuca arundinacea |
Tall fescue |
turf grass |
Festuca ovina glauca |
Blue fescue |
ornamental |
Helictotrichon sempervirens |
Blue oat grass |
ornamental |
Lolium perenne |
Perennial ryegrass |
turf grass |
Oryzopsis hymenoides |
Indian rice grass |
ornamental |
Alternative turfgrasses |
|
---|---|
Festuca |
Fescues |
Lolium perenne |
Perennial rye |
Buchloe dactyloides |
Buffalograss (below 6,500 feet) |
Bouteloua gracilis |
Blue grama |
Ornamental grasses |
|
---|---|
Calamagrostis acutiflora |
Feather reed grass |
Chasmanthium latifolium |
Northern sea oats |
Helictotrichon sempervirens |
Blue oats |
Panicum virgatum |
Switchgrass |
Blue oats ( Helictotrichon sempervirens)
Vinca, periwinkle ( Vinca minor)
Ponderosa pine ( Pinus ponderosa)
Skunkbush sumac ( Rhus trilobata )
Evening primrose ( Oenothera missouriensis)
Wine cup ( Callirhoe involucrata)
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Issued in furtherance of extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with the U. S. Department of Agriculture. Kelly Crane, director, University of Wyoming Extension, University of Wyoming, Laramie, Wyoming 82071. • The University’s policy has been, and will continue to be, one of nondiscrimination, offering equal opportunity to all employees and applicants for employment on the basis of their demonstrated ability and competence without regard to such matters as race, sex, gender, color, religion, national origin, disability, age, veteran status, sexual orientation, genetic information, political belief, or other status protected by state and federal statutes or University Regulations.
B-1143R
Revised August 2020
Karen Panter, Extension Horticulture Specialist, Department of Plant Sciences, University of Wyoming
Editor: Katie Shockley, University of Wyoming Extension
Design: Tanya Engel, University of Wyoming Extension
Originally published December 2003. Karen Panter, Extension Horticulture Specialist, Department of Plant Sciences, University of Wyoming
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